The Convergence of Everything that Is Important

Whether you are a photographer or a trekker, a sunset over Everest is the image every mountain lover dreams of. Being both, I must say I am no exception. The highest mountain, known as Chomolungma by Tibetans and Sagarmatha by Nepalis, rises to 8,848 m and, for many, reaches into the realm of the gods. There is no doubt that the ultimate objective is to see Mount Everest’s summit, even if only with our own eyes, but capturing the moment with our cameras is what turns a transient view into something lasting. Some people prefer sunrise as the more reliable experience, since mornings are usually clear. However, as the day wears on in the Khumbu region, clouds are increasingly likely to accumulate and crawl up the valley, blocking the view of the peaks by evening.

Beyond that, this is a trip where the highest peaks on Earth, the most fascinating mountain culture (the Sherpas'), and one of the pillars of ancient and contemporary spirituality (Tibetan Buddhism) merge.

The Effort

Like most adventure trips, this one takes a long time to get to. Not only do you have to make it to Nepal, but you must also board a small twin-engine turboprop in Kathmandu that flies through the mountains and suddenly lands on a short village street in Lukla. I must say this is not for the faint of heart, especially when the plane banks between the ridges on its way in.

Immediately after landing, the trek starts. It is lengthy, at least two weeks if you choose to do it on your own. The abrupt, steep terrain really wears you out if you don’t prepare adequately for the ordeal. But if you doubt whether you are capable of travelling alone, don’t worry: you will certainly meet young men right outside Lukla airport who offer themselves as mountain guides or porters for hire. I personally decided to go alone with my friend and adventure partner, since I not only needed total freedom when it comes to photographing any interesting subjects that may arise, but also wanted to test myself and see where my ability to carry my own gear in such harsh surroundings could take me without help.

The effort required to succeed comes from several factors. The length of the trek is not for everyone, and the remoteness of the area can sometimes be scary. Beyond tiredness or accidents, elevation-related health issues, which can be a real danger, are not something you want to ignore. I experienced the consequences of the thin air for the first time at 3,800 m, and I have to admit that I felt a certain level of anxiety and had a sleepless night. A slight but sustained drop in overall air pressure leads to reduced blood oxygen levels, which may force you to retrace your steps towards a lower elevation.

You follow new rules, such as acclimatization routines based on long daily hikes, rests at camp, and shorter day trips to much higher elevations, followed by sleeping back down. All of this makes the route much longer and easier than you might expect, and it can often be exhausting, but it also gives you the opportunity to see mountains, valleys, and villages that you wouldn’t otherwise see.

The Way Is the Goal

Despite these challenges, this trip is the perfect reflection of the idea that the end is not the goal; the way is.

On the way, you get to play with local kids and walk with stray dogs that seem to find solace in your companionship. You can seek refuge and get comfort and food at one of the many family-owned tea houses you encounter, where you have the opportunity to meet people from all around the world, listen to incredible personal stories, and, of course, feel a bit more insignificant as part of Samsara, the cyclical process of existence.

Along the Khumbu Valley, you find yourself immersed in an ancient cultural environment. The Sherpa people are native to the mountainous regions of Nepal, India, and Tibet. They are well known for their physical and mental strength and physiological resilience. Depending on the season, you can see them accompanying groups of mountaineers who one day felt the call of the highest mountain on the planet, or guiding expeditions that focus on less demanding lower-elevation peaks around the valley.

The region is steeped in a profound spiritual atmosphere. Tibetan Buddhism embraces all. Little stupas, stone-carved mantras called Mani stones, and colourful prayer flags are a constant on each and every path you follow. In Tengboche village, in Khumjung, a Tibetan Buddhist monastery of the Sherpa community welcomes the trekkers to the beginning of the high-altitude realm. At 3,867 m, the monastery is the largest spiritual compound in the Khumbu region of Nepal. You can even participate in an early-morning meditation session there, it’s open to everyone. Just be respectful, leave your shoes outside, and don’t take photos during the ceremony.

On October 16, after a final exhausting push, I reached almost 5,600 m and sat in front of Mount Everest (8,848 m), Lhotse (8,516 m), and Nuptse (7,861 m). I waited for an hour with my Nikon mounted on my mini tripod, capturing innumerable images as the light changed before the sun started to set. The temperature dropped extremely quickly as the wind grew so strong that it forced me to take shelter among the rocks and grab my tripod to prevent the images from being ruined. Finally, the last rays of the sun reached the tops of the mountains, and Mount Everest’s summit was on fire. My tears froze on my face.

To me, the whole trip was probably a once-in-a-lifetime experience. One that I will always treasure as a huge collection of images and experiences, as long as my brain remains awake. Doing it again doesn’t seem feasible anymore, and I am almost certain that it would never be the same. Perhaps the clouds would block the view of the summit.